Yup, this is quite an abrupt ending to the posts about my journey through Russia. And trust me… it was just as abrupt in reality. The title of this post was supposed to be “Travelling to Vladivostok”. Although I travelled to Vladivostok, the story got a surprising twist. Let’s start at the beginning.
From Trans-Mongolian to Trans-Siberian
As described in the first post about the Trans-Siberian Express, I originally planned to take the Trans-Mongolian Express through Russia, Mongolia and China. The plans to go to China already came into question early this year when the first cases of COVID-19 rapidly spread throughout Wuhan. Halfway in the journey through Russia it became clear that Mongolia also closed its border after discovering a case in its capital Ulaanbaatar. Of course bummed by the fact that these developments took place at exactly the same time I decided to quit my job and travel into the unknown, there are still some pretty solid alternatives available.
Fortunately I could change my train tickets to travel to Vladivostok all the way in the east of Russia, very close to the North Korean border. As I am about to embark on this train ride, I am actually very happy about this alternative. The downside of taking the Trans-Mongolian Express was the fact that I had to miss out on visiting Vladivostok. I do not know why but I believe this city has a certain mystique and charm to it, that I really want to explore.
Japan
Considering the fact that the train ride from Irkutsk to Vladivostok takes an impressive 3 days and nights it means that I have to leave Irkutsk a day earlier than originally planned to comply with the exit date of my Russian visa. Upon arrival in Vladivostok I will have one day to explore the city, after which I will have to board a plane and fly to… Japan! A country that I have been wanting to visit ever since I was a small child, but have never found the right moment for, until now. The COVID-19 outbreak seems pretty much under control and Japan’s healthcare system appears to be equipped to deal with pretty extreme emergency situations. At this point in time, the Olympics are still scheduled to take place in July 2020, so I was sure that the government was putting in all its efforts to control the outbreak as much as possible.
The journey begins…
Very early in the morning of 19 March it is time to head over to the train station in Irkutsk, fully equipped for a train ride of 3 days and nights. Everything went smoothly and soon I find myself installed in the kupé (2nd class cabin). This time I share the cabin with one neighbour, Yuri, who tells me he works for the Russian railways. Like most Russians on the train, he soon dozes off, allowing me some time to relax and get adjusted to the slow rhythm of the train. It is in fact the only mode that makes the train ride enjoyable. If you are too high in your energy, the lack of stimulation during the 3 days makes those days feel like 3 weeks.
As the internet connection is generally poor in between stations I settle down with a puzzle book. In a surprising peak of 3G, I receive a notification that Japan imposed travel restrictions for European citizens as of 21 March. The internet connection is unfortunately so poor, that I cannot retrieve any more information or find out whether this applies to people with an EU citizenship or with people travelling from such countries. If the first applies, it means the end of my travel as I will not arrive in Vladivostok before 22 March.
What to do? Get off from the train, go back to Irkutsk and try to find a flight to Japan? I know that Irkutsk has an airport, but will there be any flights available and will these flights arrive before 21 March? I only have 8 minutes before the next stop. The stop after that will take another 4 hours which will most certainly mean that I will not have sufficient time to get back to Irkutsk.
I decide that staying in the train will significantly reduce my chances to enter Japan in time. I take a leap of faith in the Russian transportation system and decide to leave the train at the next train station. Which turns out to be in the middle of nowhere… And when in Siberia, the middle of nowhere really means feeling that you are standing on the edge of the earth. When I stand on the empty snowy platform with all my luggage and the dramatic view of the train departing, it is safe to say I very much question whether I made the right decision.
Fortunately Yuri, the railway worker from my cabin, comes to the rescue. This initially unsympathetic looking Russian turns out to be very kind and gives me some last minute tips about this station and how to get back to Irkutsk. He then helps me with my luggage and guides me to a spot with benches and an internet connection. Very much ashamed by my initial biased judge of character we say goodbye and he goes back to his work. Yet again, this proofs never to judge a book by its cover in this country, by now I should know better right?!
Fortunately the decision turns out to be a good one. I am not only able to find a train returning to Irkutsk in a couple of hours but more importantly a flight ticket to Tokyo with a layover in Vladivostok of 9 hours.
… and continues….
I arrive back in Irkutsk around 5 PM. By this time I am already travelling for 12 hours and am exactly in the same spot where I left. This change of plan is also an expensive one, as it cost me a train ticket to Vladivostok, a ticket back to Irkutsk and a flight ticket from Vladivostok to Tokyo on 23 March (already booked).
Although I am a bit frustrated that the original plan did not work out I am happy with my leap-of-faith-decision. I find myself reunited with a German guy and another Dutch girl whom I met at Lake Baikal whilst eating and drinking myself through 3 days worth of train provisions. We share a taxi and head over to the airport in the evening. This is actually the last flight from Irkutsk that still enables us to enter Japan before 21 March. As soon as the plane takes off to bring us to our layover in Vladivostok I am very excited about this new part of the trip that lies ahead.
Again crossing 2 time zones my biological clock is now so messed up that I have no sense of time anymore. The layover in Vladivostok is not long enough to actually go out and visit the city, so it gives me some time to call the home front and inform them of the sudden change of plans. After what felt like a week, we board a very empty flight to Tokyo with just 20 other passengers.
Upon arrival I read that at exactly the same time of our flight, North Korea firied missiles at Japan. Strange feeling that this part of the world is now so close by.
… finally there!
As soon as we land at Narita airport, we are faced with the high level of preparedness and thoroughness of the Japanese. We are welcomed by people in contamination suits and undergo a health check. Fortunately everything is declared safe and it does not take long until we have the 3 month temporary visa in our passports.
I am so relieved to set foot at Japanese soil! Not least because the mass consumption of the 3 days worth of train drinks left me longing for those famous Japanese toilets for quite some time now. After that first weird experience the fatigue of 40 hours of continuous travelling suddenly hits me like hammer. This leg started off settling in the train for a 3 day train journey and ends in the daily rush of Tokyo. The contrast could not have been bigger. The 20-degree breeze, the lights, the high-pinched advertising voices, the shops, the food smells, the crowds on the streets… it is just overwhelming. With a warm fuzzy feeling of great excitement about this new part of my journey I am relieved with the very detailed instruction how to get to the apartment and the smooth check in. Good night, onto 11 days in Tokyo!
